How to cure plastisol ink: to cure it, heat the entire ink film, from the top surface down to where it meets the fabric, to the cure temperature on your ink spec (commonly about 310°F to 330°F for standard plastisol and lower for low cure inks), then confirm with a stretch test and a wash test.

Rule: cure means the whole ink film, not the surface

Plastisol cures when the whole ink film reaches the ink maker's cure temperature. Surface heat alone is not enough; thick deposits need more time to get there.

Part of the DAX Learning Hub: practical, exhibitor neutral guides for apparel decorating. To build curing time and energy into job costs, see How to Price Custom Apparel.

Published by DAX (Decorated Apparel Expo) · Last updated: October 2026

Also see Screen Reclaiming and Ghost Image Removal: A Shop Guide.

Also see Emulsion Exposure Times: How to Find the Right One, Manual vs Automatic Screen Printing Press: How to Decide, and Discharge Ink Screen Printing Explained for Apparel Shops.

Find more screen printing guides in the DAX Learning Hub. Related guides: Screen Printing for Beginners: Process, Equipment, and When It Pays Off and Plastisol vs Water Based Ink: Differences, Curing, and When to Use Each.

Plastisol Cure Temperature

These are typical figures from ink technical bulletins. Your ink's product sheet is the authority, and the temperature must be reached by the ink film, not just shown on a dryer display.

How to Cure Plastisol Step by Step

1. Read the cure temperature on your ink's product sheet and note any fabric limits.
2. Print an even deposit. Thick areas, double hits and specialty inks need longer to cure.
3. Flash underbases only to the gel point so top colors can bond to them.
4. Run the garment through your heat source so the ink film reaches the spec temperature. On a conveyor dryer, adjust belt speed and heat rather than temperature alone.
5. Measure the ink, not the air. A probe reading at the ink and fabric gives a truer picture than a display.
6. Let the print cool to room temperature, then stretch test it.
7. Wash test a sample from each new ink, garment or setup.

Curing With a Flash, Conveyor, Heat Press or Heat Gun

Flash and conveyor dryers play different roles on a screen line. For buying and capacity questions, see Flash vs Conveyor Dryer.

Conveyor Dryer

The most consistent option for production, because every garment gets the same dwell time. Measure ink temperature as it passes through and set belt speed to reach the spec.

Flash Dryer

Built to gel ink between colors, a flash can fully cure small runs if the ink film is held at cure temperature long enough. Heat is concentrated and easy to overdo, so watch for scorching and measure the ink.

Heat Press

A heat press can cure plastisol on small runs: cover the print with a heat resistant non stick sheet, set the press to reach your ink's cure temperature, use light to medium pressure, and wash test the result. Follow your ink spec for temperature and time.

Heat Gun

A heat gun can work for samples or tiny jobs, but heat is uneven and hard to control. It can scorch the surface while ink at the fabric stays undercured, so it is not suited to production.

How to Tell If Plastisol Is Cured

• Stretch test. Once the print is cool, stretch it within the fabric's natural give. Cracking or crumbling suggests undercure. A pass is only a quick check, because a stretchy ink can pass while the bottom of the film is still undercured.
• Scratch or rub test. Ink that rubs off or smears with light abrasion is likely undercured.
• Wash test. The definitive check. Wash a production sample about 3 to 5 times on a hot wash and dry, and compare it with an unwashed half. Cracking or ink loss points to undercure.
• Temperature readings. Heat strips show the peak temperature reached but not how long it held, and infrared guns read the surface only. Use them as a guide alongside a probe and a wash test.

Undercured Plastisol Problems

Undercured prints may look fine off the dryer and fail later: cracking, flaking, poor wash fastness and ink rubbing off are common signs, and on polyester and blends an incomplete cure can sit alongside dye migration problems. Overcuring has its own risks, including scorched garments and more dye bleed on polyester, so aim for the spec rather than as hot as possible.

Frequently Asked Questions About Curing Plastisol Ink (FAQ)

What temperature does plastisol cure at?

Standard plastisol commonly cures at about 310°F to 330°F, and low cure inks at about 260°F to 300°F. The whole ink film has to reach that temperature. Follow your ink spec.

Can you cure plastisol with a heat press?

Yes, for small runs. Cover the print with a non stick sheet, set the press to reach your ink's cure temperature with light to medium pressure, and confirm with a wash test.

How do you know plastisol is fully cured?

A cooled print that stretches without cracking is a good first sign, but the wash test is the reliable check: about 3 to 5 hot washes with no cracking or ink loss.

Can plastisol be overcured?

Yes. Too much heat can scorch garments and, on polyester, push dye migration into the print. Cure to the ink spec rather than well above it.

Temperatures, times and wash counts here are typical published ranges. Follow your ink, garment or equipment supplier spec.

Curing is easier to dial in when you can compare dryers, flashes and inks side by side. Browse more guides in the DAX Learning Hub, and check cities and dates on the DAX show schedule to see curing equipment and inks with suppliers in person.