What Is French Terry? A Guide for Decorators
What is french terry: what it is made of, french terry vs fleece vs jersey, how to decorate it and what to check on a blank spec.
French terry is a knit with a smooth jersey face and unbrushed loops on the back. It is the same base structure as fleece without the napping, and you decorate the smooth face.
What is french terry? French terry is a knit fabric with a smooth jersey face and soft, unbrushed loops on the back, usually made from cotton or a cotton blend. It is the same base structure as sweatshirt fleece without the brushing, so it decorates much like other sweatshirt fabrics as long as you work on the smooth face and respect its stretch.
Definition: french terry is a two yarn weft knit. One yarn knits a plain jersey face, and a second yarn lies in the back as floats that show up as small loops. Textile educators note it is technically an un napped fleece rather than a true terry, because the loops are floats, not pile formed by a terry sinker.
Part of the business and pricing guides in the DAX Learning Hub. For sourcing blanks, see Wholesale Blanks Buying.
What Is French Terry Made Of
French terry describes a construction, not a fiber. Many french terry blanks are mainly cotton, and others blend cotton with polyester or other fibers. The fiber line on the spec drives your ink, film and dye choices; the french terry line tells you how the fabric is built and which side you will decorate.
The face is a flat jersey knit. The back carries the loop yarn, which is often a softer yarn chosen for feel. Because the loops are left intact rather than brushed, the back stays textured and comparatively breathable, which is why french terry is sold as a lighter, multi season alternative to brushed fleece.
French Terry vs Fleece vs Jersey
| Fabric | Back side | What it means for decorators |
|---|---|---|
| French terry | Unbrushed loops (floats) behind a jersey face | Decorate the smooth face; loops stay visible inside hoods and cuffs |
| Brushed fleece | Same kind of back yarn, napped into a fuzzy surface | Usually warmer and lofty; decorate the face, plan for loft under a press |
| Jersey | No loops; flat back | Thinner single knit used for most tees; see What Is Jersey Fabric? |
| Terry cloth (towel style) | Loops on one or both faces, formed as pile | Not the same fabric; prints sink between loops, so it is usually embroidered |
The key difference between french terry and fleece is finishing, not structure: brushing the back loops of the same kind of fabric is what turns it into fleece. That is why many buyers group them together as sweatshirt fabric, and why the name on a style sheet matters when a customer wants a lighter garment.
Decorating French Terry
The smooth jersey face is the printable side. Trade coverage of french terry printing notes that a tight, smooth face can take plastisol with finer meshes and thinner ink films, which helps keep the hand soft. The looped back is not a print surface.
Screen printing
Treat french terry like other knit sweatshirt fabric. Load it without stretching, keep placements square, and choose the ink system by fiber content. For hoodie sizing, pockets and curing, follow Screen Printing on Hoodies, and use Plastisol vs Water Based Ink to match ink to the blend.
Embroidery
French terry is a knit, so it stretches and can distort under dense stitching. Plan backing, hooping and density the way you would on other knit sweatshirt fabric, and run a sample on the actual blank. Placement and stabilizer steps for this garment family live on Embroidery on Hoodies.
Heat transfers and DTF
Press on the smooth face with even pressure so the loop back does not leave an uneven bed under the transfer, and check the transfer maker settings for the fiber blend. Stretch can affect cracking, so give the finished piece a stretch check. Pressing steps for this garment family are on Heat Press on Sweatshirts.
Method fit at a glance
| Method | Fit on french terry | Check first |
|---|---|---|
| Screen print | Common on the smooth face | Ink system by fiber; finer mesh for soft hand; cure per ink maker |
| Embroidery | Common on hoodies and crews | Backing and density for a stretchy knit; sample sew |
| Heat transfer or DTF | Common on the smooth face | Even pressure; transfer maker settings; stretch test |
| DTG | Depends on fiber content | Cotton share and pretreat guidance from the printer maker |
Weight, Shrink and Care Notes
French terry is sold in a wide spread of weights, from light tops to heavier hoodie fabric. We do not quote weight figures here because they vary by mill and style; read the weight on the blank spec and order a sample before you quote. For weight and size chart guidance, use the blank buying guide.
Shrink varies with fiber and finishing. Cotton rich knits can shrink, and fabric guides advise a test wash to check shrinkage, skew and color loss, while pre shrunk goods hold up better in washing. Avoiding high dryer heat helps limit shrink. Put the garment maker care label first on any care card.
Reading French Terry on a Blank Spec
| Spec line | What to look for | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric or knit | French terry, loopback or terry knit | Confirms unbrushed loops; fleece means brushed |
| Fiber content | Cotton share, polyester share, other fibers | Drives ink, DTG fit and transfer settings |
| Weight | Weight as listed by the maker | Affects hand, drape and price; compare like for like |
| Finishing | Pre shrunk, garment dyed or washed notes | Signals shrink behavior; still test wash |
| Face | Smooth face described | The surface you decorate |
When a spec says only fleece, ask whether the back is brushed. Loopback styles labeled as fleece exist, and the difference changes both feel and press behavior.
Frequently Asked Questions About French Terry (FAQ)
What is french terry?
French terry is a knit with a smooth jersey face and soft, unbrushed loops on the back. It is usually cotton or a cotton blend and is common in lighter sweatshirts, hoodies and joggers.
Is french terry the same as fleece?
Not quite. They share the same kind of structure, but fleece has its back loops brushed into a fuzzy nap. French terry leaves the loops intact, so it is usually lighter feeling and more breathable, while brushed fleece is usually warmer.
Is french terry good for printing?
It depends on the method, but the smooth face prints well for screen printing and heat transfers, and DTG depends on the cotton share. Always decorate the face, not the loop side, and test on the actual blank.
Does french terry shrink?
It can, especially in cotton rich styles. Check the spec for pre shrunk notes, do a test wash on a sample and follow the care label, which may advise avoiding high dryer heat.
Can you embroider on french terry?
Yes. Treat it as a stretchy knit: choose backing and density for knits, hoop without stretching, and sample sew before the run.
Supplier note: french terry weight, fiber blend and finishing vary by mill and style; treat this as general guidance and confirm every figure and setting against the supplier spec sheet, the ink, film or thread maker instructions and the garment care label. Test on the actual blank.
Browse more guides in the DAX Learning Hub, and check cities and dates on the DAX show schedule when you are ready to see blanks and decorating equipment with suppliers in person.