What is sherpa fabric? Sherpa fabric is a knit, usually polyester, with a deep, curly pile on one side that imitates sheepskin and a flat knit face on the other; for decorating, the pile swallows stitches and ink, so embroidery needs a water soluble topping and a cutaway stabilizer, and many shops use patches or decorate a smooth panel instead.

Key rule: decorate on top of the pile, never into it. Topping, patches and smooth panels are the three ways to keep the design visible.

Part of the embroidery guides in the DAX Learning Hub. Related: Embroidery on Fleece Jackets, What Is French Terry?, Embroidery Stabilizer Buying Criteria and Embroidery Patches and Applique.

Published by DAX (Decorated Apparel Expo) · Last updated: October 2026

Decorating Sherpa by Method

Use the table to steer the quote. If the customer wants a logo on the curly side, direct embroidery or a patch is usually the conversation. Print and transfer methods belong on smooth areas.

What Is Sherpa Fabric Made Of

Sherpa is a two sided fabric: a thick, curly pile on one face and a flat knit on the other. Most sherpa on the market is polyester. Some is acrylic, a polyester and acrylic blend, or a polyester and cotton blend, and pure cotton sherpa is uncommon. It is often called faux shearling because it was designed to look like sheepskin without animal fiber.

The pile is made by knitting yarns into the base fabric and brushing or roughening them to raise a crimped, wool like nap. That raised pile is what makes sherpa warm and soft, and it is also what makes decoration tricky.

Fiber content varies by product, so read the care label and supplier spec sheet before choosing heat settings or inks. Pile height and density also vary, and a denser, shorter pile is easier to stitch on than a long, loose one.

Embroidering on Sherpa

Embroidery education for pile fabrics points to the same basic setup:

1. Hoop with a stabilizer on the back; a medium weight cutaway is a common choice for the stretchy knit base. Test on the actual garment.
2. Lay a lightweight water soluble topping on the pile side. It flattens the nap so stitches sit on top instead of sinking.
3. Choose designs with solid fills and satin stitches. Thin running stitches and very small lettering tend to disappear in pile.
4. Consider a knockdown or underlay layer under lettering if your digitizer recommends it, to press the pile down before the top stitches.
5. After sewing, tear away the topping and remove small bits with tweezers or a damp touch; the rest washes out.
6. Run a test sew on the same sherpa before the order.

Hoop marks on polyester pile often relax after washing or steaming, but test on the actual garment. For bulky jackets and blankets, hoop placement and support for the weight matter as much as stabilizer choice. See the stabilizer buying criteria for backing and topping types.

Patches and Smooth Panel Options

Patches avoid the pile problem entirely, because the design is made on a separate base and then attached. Sewn on patches hold well on deep pile. Adhesive backed patches need a firm, even surface to bond to, so test any heat applied patch on the specific sherpa, and expect some pile crushing around the edge. The patches and applique guide covers patch types.

Many sherpa garments combine the pile with smooth areas: a sherpa lined jacket with a nylon or twill shell, a quarter zip with smooth yokes, or a blanket with a plain border. Decorating the smooth area lets you use screen print, transfers or standard embroidery setups.

Sherpa vs Fleece vs French Terry

Sherpa has a deep, curly pile that imitates sheepskin. Fleece has a shorter, brushed pile that is more even. French terry has loops on the back and a smooth face, with no raised pile on the outside. For decorators, that means French terry and many fleeces give a flatter surface to work on, while sherpa needs the most help. See embroidery on fleece jackets and what is French terry for those fabrics.

When a customer wants the cozy look but also a crisp logo, suggest a sherpa lined garment with a smooth outer shell, or a patch.

Frequently Asked Questions About Sherpa Fabric (FAQ)

What is sherpa fabric made of?

Usually polyester, sometimes acrylic or blends with cotton. Check the care label for the exact content of each garment.

Can you embroider on sherpa?

Yes, commonly with a cutaway stabilizer underneath (test first), a water soluble topping on top and designs with solid fills or satins. Test sew first.

Can you heat press sherpa?

Pressing the pile side tends to crush it and gives uneven adhesion. Use a patch or press a smooth area instead, at the transfer maker's settings, and test.

Sherpa vs fleece: what is the difference?

Sherpa has a deeper, curly, sheepskin like pile. Fleece has a shorter, more even brushed pile, which is easier to decorate.

How do you keep stitches from sinking into sherpa?

Lay a lightweight water soluble topping over the pile, use a stabilizer underneath (a cutaway is common; test), and choose denser fills and satin stitches over thin running stitches.

Supplier note: figures and settings here are hedged starting points that vary by blank, film, stone, leather, ink and certificate; confirm every claim against the supplier or manufacturer spec sheet, the garment care label and current certificates. Pile height, fiber content and heat tolerance vary by garment; follow the supplier spec sheet and care label.

Browse more guides in the DAX Learning Hub, and check cities and dates on the DAX show schedule when you are ready to see embroidery supplies and outerwear blanks in person.